It’s September 14th and I’m currently at mile 2074.7, just 114.5 miles from MT. KATAHDIN! I’m so excited to be here, but also so sad to be approaching the end. I honestly wish this could go on forever! Though I do not think my feet feel the same- haha!
Maine welcomed me with many incredible panoramic views; but, they didn’t come easy. The mountains remained tough through this section of Maine. The infamous Mahoosuc Notch was no different. The AWOL AT Guide describes Mahoosuc Notch as “The most difficult or fun mile of the AT. Make way through pit of jumbled boulders.” So make my way through I did- very, very slowly! I climbed, jumped, crawled, scrambled, slid, I went up, I went down, I went through, over, around, under, I stared at gaps and boulders in amazement, I stared at the “trail” in complete bewilderment, I took my pack off to squeeze through boulders, then pulled it through behind me, I fell, I slipped, and I gave myself many motivational talks- mostly promising myself that I wasn’t going to die in this jumbled pit of boulders. Thankfully, I did not. And despite the difficulty, it was a bit of fun too- haha! It took me two full hours to get through that mile. And Maine didn’t stop there!
Next up was Mahoosuc Arm, a mountain where we gained 1,600 ft over just 1.5 miles, often climbing nearly straight up over tree roots, rocks, and slippery rock slabs. I was already exhausted from the Notch by the time we made it to the base of the mountain. Actually, to be fair, I was already exhausted from the previous 1,916.5 miles I hiked. My legs were burning like they never have before going up Mahoosuc Arm. It took everything I had left to get myself up that mountain. But I did. And then, we continued on for another 8 miles to our destination for the night. It’s truly amazing how much pain your body can be in during a long, steep climb, and how fast it dissipates once you reach the top and see a view like those in Maine. I feel so lucky to get to see this every day. It’s something I will never take for granted.
The terrain slowly began to mellow out as we made our way further into Maine. That’s not to say it became easy, but there were stretches where I could actually hike again, instead of constantly climbing with my hands and feet, and I’ve really been enjoying it. Along the trail, Maine is well known for its sandy beaches and swimming in lakes and ponds along the way. I’ve gotten really lucky with the weather and I spent a beautiful evening sitting in the sand, swimming, and watching the sun set over the water at a gorgeous lake. It was the perfect ending to a really nice day.
After climbing the Saddleback Mountains and the Crocker Mountains, which were both challenging and incredible, my body was ready or a rest. I took a much needed zero day in Stratton. It was my first zero mileage day since Hanover, New Hampshire! I was beyond tired at this point. In fact, I was so worn out that I had begun wondering if I had Lyme Disease. Fortunately the zero day was just what I needed and although I’m still exhausted on a daily basis, the rest served me well. The next day I headed out to hike the Bigelow Mountains. They would be my last “big” climbs until Katahdin. The Bigelows were beautiful with 360 degree views! The peaks were above tree line and I could see from one to the next. They are certainly in my top 5 favorite mountains of the entire trail.
But the beauty did not stop there. The next evening I found myself camped at Pierce Pond. I had a water front tent site and enjoyed a colorful sunset over the water. I feel like the luckiest person in the world! That same evening I drifted off to sleep to the hooting of a barred owl.
The next morning I headed toward the Kennebec River. I had been looking forward to crossing the Kennebec since I started planning my hike! Not just because it meant I was in Maine and getting closer to Katahdin, but because it was required to take the ferry across. The dam upstream made the water levels and current too unpredictable to ford safely, so Ferryman Dave picks you up in the canoe and takes you safely across the river! He’s been doing this for NINE YEARS! He told me he expects to take about 1,700 hikers across this year.
There a A LOT of ponds, lakes, and rivers in Maine. And unlike the previous states, Maine hasn’t put a bridge over all of them. So in Maine, fording rivers is often necessary. I was nervous as I approached the first river that I would have to ford after my experience in Massachusetts. Hollywood would not be here to come to my rescue! Thankfully, I made it across each river just fine, and enjoyed the chance to soak my feet in the ice cold water!
Tomorrow I will head out into the 100 Mile Wilderness, the last leg of my hike before Mt. Katahdin. There are many emotions about coming up to the end. But for now, while I’m still here, I’m just enjoying every moment I have.
Happy Trails,
Nicole
